The Hike
Beginning at Sant’Anna Institute, a group of students led by two local guides, Peppe and Camilla, headed out for the scenic route to Bagni della Regina Giovanna.
Trekking primarily uphill for about two hours, the final destination was a sip of cold water on a hot day.
Near Capo di Sorrento at the northern point of the peninsula, the rock-studded coast is softened by the lapping waves, and a natural turquoise pool is nestled within rocks and the ruins of the ancient Roman villa of Pollio Felice.
Bagni della Regina Giovanna is an oasis of salty swimming and rich history.
Legend says that in the 1400s, Queen Giovanna of Naples would spend time here with her lovers.
Once she was through spending time with these often younger men, she would send them to their deaths, usually by beheading.
Because of this repeated behavior, she became known as Regina Giovanna la pazza (Queen Giovanna the crazy).
Walking away from the water and up a winding path, I found a trail outlined by brush and trees.
A wall once enclosing this ancient Roman villa from the steep drop below rested along the far edge of the trail.
I lifted myself up and sat in the shade of an olive tree, a quiet spot that felt empty and free
Below me were meters of seemingly endless foliage, and beyond that was a stunning view of the gulf of Naples with Mount Vesuvius straight ahead.
Boats streamed across the sea, leaving white trails behind them, most leaving from the Sorrento port and heading to Capri.
On the way back to Sant’Anna Institute, the group walked along the descending path of Via Capo, which was just as scenic of a route as the way up, only this road was much busier with cars and motorcycles.
We stopped at a lookout point, Qui dove il mare luccica, which is the opening line of Lucio Dalla’s most famous song “Caruso”.
Here, and everywhere along this winding path, the sea does indeed glitter and shine, illuminating the calm, blue beauty of such a life.
The Kayak Tour
Through SAI Study Abroad Programs, I attended a sunset kayak tour of Bagni della Regina Giovanna along with other tourists, three guides, and SAI event coordinator Filippo Petti.
At 6:30pm we left Sorrento Kayak in Marina Grande, navigating through the marina and out into the open water.
Boats returning to the marina added to the already large swells, and floating among them felt like sitting on a roller coaster.
My one-person kayak met the waves before they crashed, sometimes airborne before slapping the water again.
The guided group made its way to Bagni della Regina Giovanna, which is in fact much quicker to reach by water than by foot.
Upon arriving, we disembarked from our kayaks and had free time to swim, hike, and jump off the cliffs.
The sun was beginning to set, leaving the swimming hole shaded and cool.
I stood on the soft sand of the natural pool and took in the scene.
Splashes and shouts of adventurous cliff jumpers echoed through the rock archway.
Small fish nibbled at my feet. Then I floated on my back in this speck of the sea. Rhythmic swells soothed any worries. Saltwater coated my curls.
Time moved slowly and yet not at all. Being in such a place so full of history’s memories and of people from various countries felt like being everywhere and nowhere at all.
Time did indeed move whether it seemed to or not, and soon we were back on our kayaks and on the open sea.
The orange glow of the sunset cascaded around us, casting reflections on the water.
I attempted to capture the moment with my phone, but even if it hadn’t been clouded by a waterproof bag, the camera could never contain the glory of such a scene.
I turned my kayak to face the bulb of light unshaded by anything in the sky.
And for this snapshot of such a life, I too glowed and beamed and reflected, for I was here in a kayak off the coast of Sorrento, Italia, across the sea from Napoli witnessing the shine of the passing of time.
I was nowhere but here.
A presto!
Sofia
