Leading up to Easter, Sorrento has solemn processions representing the Passion of Christ.
I attended the three processions taking place in Sorrento on Holy Thursday and Good Friday.
Seeing these processions was such a unique experience and allowed me to see the importance of Sorrento’s religious traditions surrounding Easter.
April 17th, Holy Thursday, 8:30pm
The first procession I attended was on Holy Thursday at 8:30pm.
This procession was organized by the Ven. Arciconfraternita del SS. Rosario (Venerable Archconfraternity of the Most Holy Rosary).
I stood near the entrance of the church, Chiesa dei Santi Felice e Baccolo, where the procession was to begin, but I didn’t get there quite early enough so I was standing behind a bunch of people and I could barely see what was happening.
After everyone in the procession had left the church, the crowd started to disperse, some following the procession and others walking towards Corso Italia.
I ended up walking to Piazza Tasso and was able to see the procession much better this time when it passed through.
One part of the procession that wasn’t a part of the initial leaving the church was a band playing Funeral Marches at the head of the procession.
The crowd in Piazza Tasso were chatting, but as soon as the processional music was heard, a hush fell over the crowd.
Then, those wearing black and white robes with white hoods that covered their faces walked through.
A couple of those at the beginning were wearing crowns of thorns on their heads.
These were then followed by a group carrying lamps or torches, and then there were children, holding crosses over their shoulders.
Some of the items carried were what I had seen before in the procession for Sant’Antonino, such as incense burners, the flag, and crucifix.
Then the symbols of the Passion of Christ were carried: a rooster, a knife and ear, dice, a shroud, a whip, stick with a sponge on the end, and others that I either couldn’t identify or see clearly in the dark.
The main statue of this procession was a very large one of Jesus praying in the Garden of Gethsemane.
This was an impressive statue and it rested on a bed of flowers and was carried on the shoulders of many people.
I was able to see it later displayed in the church the next day, and getting to see it up close when it wasn’t moving was really nice because I could fully appreciate the intricacies of it.
Finally, at the end of the procession were those reciting prayers in unison.
After the procession, I walked past the church on the way back to my dorm so I stepped in and I was stunned by the beauty of it.
I stood in the church processing what I had just witnessed and praying, thanking God for the sacrifice of Christ, having been reminded of the seriousness of it.
April 18th, Good Friday, 3:00am
The next procession was at 3am on Friday.
This procession was organized by the Arciconfraternita di Santa Monica (Archconfraternity of Santa Monica) and is La Processione Bianca dell’Addolorata, The White Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows.
This time I made sure to arrive earlier at the church where it began.
It felt surreal being outside in Sorrento at such an early hour, and as I walked towards the church, Chiesa della SS. Annunziata, I could hear singing: a chorus of voices in sync that pierced through the silence of the night.
This time, I was able to see the exit from the church in a pretty narrow pathway so I was standing very close to the procession as it passed by.
This procession is known as The White Procession as those in it were dressed in white robes and hoods.
Much of this procession was similar to the one of the prior evening, including a band at the beginning, those holding torches and lamps, the same symbols of the Passion of Christ, incense burners, crosses, flags, and banners.
One thing that differed was the singing.
The large group of men who were practicing when I first arrived at the church sang a chant as they walked by without any musical accompaniment.
This procession’s main statue was that of Mary, looking for her son, Jesus.
Although I didn’t personally see this part, I have read that the procession goes from church to church, visiting the sepulchres to bring the statue in as if she is looking for her son in each.
April 18th, Good Friday, 8:30pm
Finally, the last procession was at 8:30pm on Friday.
This procession, La Processione del Cristo Morto, The Procession of the Dead Christ, also known as The Black Procession, was organized by the Venerabile Arciconfraternita Della Morte (The Venerable Archconfraternity of Death).
As the name of the procession suggests, the participants were dressed in black robes and hoods.
Like the previous two processions, they were holding symbols of Christ’s death.
This procession also included the same singing of the chant, the Psalm 51 (“Miserere Hymn”), composed by King David as a confession to God after he sinned with Bathsheba.
The main statue of this procession was a large one of the dead body of Jesus.
This statue was lying on a bed of flowers and surrounded by candles.
Because of this, and as they were dressed in all black, the procession felt quite funerary.
In addition, a statue of Mary followed, having found her son, now dressed in the black clothes of mourning.
Overall, the experience of attending these three processions was unlike anything I had ever seen before.
It was a bit eerie, seeing these hooded figures walk the dark streets, but experiencing these solemn processions really brought to light the importance of religious tradition to Sorrento, as these processions happen every year and are participated in and attended by many.
Ciao!
Justine